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牛仔裤还能怎么变？先看被“拧歪”的缝

Another way to change jeans: follow the twisted seams

牛仔裤的变化，常被放在水洗深浅和裤腿宽窄上。JW Anderson 这组 Twisted Denim 更值得看的，是缝线怎样把熟悉的牛仔下装带向新的方向。

Changes to jeans are often discussed in terms of wash or leg width. In JW Anderson's Twisted Denim, the more interesting question is how seams take familiar denim bottoms in a new direction.

编辑：Sukkiri Archive / Edited by Sukkiri Archive

01正面造型先交代宽裤腿与斜向拼接线，熟悉的白 T 让结构变化更清楚。A front look introduces the wide legs and diagonal panel seams, with a familiar white T-shirt making the construction changes clearer.

正面看，门襟、口袋和从上方向裤腿延伸的拼接线，都偏离了惯常的直线；转到侧面和背面，口袋、侧缝与裤筒也跟着换位。穿在身上时，裤腿仍保留宽直的量感，但线条会沿身体转动，静止时也有方向。

From the front, the fly, pockets and panel seams extending down the legs depart from the usual straight lines. From the side and back, the pockets, side seams and legs shift with them. On the body, the trousers retain a wide, straight volume, but their lines turn around the figure, suggesting direction even when still.

02完整正面把斜置腰头与口袋、夸张卷边和内外色差同时展开，并保留从腰部到裤脚的完整长度。The complete front view reveals the angled waistband and pockets, oversized turn-ups and contrasting inside colour, keeping the full length from waist to hem visible.

A second look.再看一套造型

卷边把内外两层颜色一起露出，是最容易借鉴的一点。普通人未必要追求夸张轮廓，选一条缝线有变化、裤脚能形成色差的丹宁，就能让白 T 和简单鞋子有内容。值得收藏的，是它把纸样语言直接留在成衣表面：以后看牛仔裤，可以先看缝从哪里开始，最后又把裤型带向哪里。

The turn-ups reveal the colours of inside and outside together, making them the easiest detail to borrow. There is no need to seek an exaggerated shape: denim with an altered seam and a contrasting cuff can give a white T-shirt and simple shoes something to work with. The lasting reference is how the pattern-cutting remains visible on the finished surface. Next time, start by following where a seam begins and where it takes the trouser shape.

图片与观察 In pictures

03抬腿与屈腿状态让裤缝的转向更清楚，画面同样保留从腰部到完整裤脚的长度。Raised and bent legs clarify how the seams turn, again retaining the full length from waist to complete hem.

04两人侧身与背身同框，后袋、侧缝和大面积卷边同时进入视线。Two people appear in side and rear views together, showing back pockets, side seams and broad turn-ups.

05平铺正面把偏移的门襟、口袋和裤腿拼接线完整展开。A front flat lay reveals the shifted fly, pockets and leg-panel seams in full.

06折叠后的近景集中展示后袋、腰头与转向侧面的缝线。A folded close-up concentrates on the back pocket, waistband and seam turning towards the side.

07浅色款以完整正面呈现，腰头与口袋位置的变化更容易比较。The pale version appears in a complete front view, making the shifted waistband and pocket positions easier to compare.

08平铺图把不对称裤腿和向内转动的结构线直接摊开。A flat lay opens out the asymmetric legs and inward-turning construction lines.

09同框造型把长裤结构延伸到不对称下装，收在更开放的穿法上。A paired look extends the trouser construction into asymmetric bottoms, ending with a less conventional way of wearing the idea.

图片出处：图1、5、7–9｜FASHION PRESS《FASHION PRESS news 150271》图2–3｜LEWIS Magazine《JW Anderson Twisted Denim: Dree Hemingway and Nick Delli Santi》图4、6｜Dancewax《JW Anderson shares twisted denim campaign》Images 1, 5 and 7–9: FASHION PRESS, news 150271. Images 2–3: LEWIS Magazine, JW Anderson Twisted Denim: Dree Hemingway and Nick Delli Santi; image credit recorded as Sam Khoury / JW Anderson. Images 4 and 6: Dancewax, JW Anderson shares twisted denim campaign.

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长裙配厚底鞋，先看裙摆

Long skirts and chunky shoes: start at the hem

长裙配厚底鞋，不必每套都露出脚踝。先看看裙摆和靴筒接在什么位置。A long skirt with chunky shoes does not have to show the ankle every time. Start by looking at where the skirt hem meets the boot shaft.

品牌档案Brand archive

NEEDLES，运动装也有复古味

The retro side of NEEDLES sportswear

让这组运动装有复古味的，不只有裤侧条纹。The retro quality of these sportswear looks comes from more than the stripes along the trousers.