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穿搭方法Style notes

男生上衣别太紧|宽肩直筒更利落

Roomier shoulders, straighter trousers: a clean menswear silhouette

这组六张图讲得很直接:上衣不用贴着身体,肩线和裤脚也能把人穿得利落。封面的格纹短外套宽在肩和身,下面用直筒棕裤接住,松但没有垮。

These six looks make a straightforward point: a top need not hug the body for the shoulders and trouser hems to give it a clean outline. The short checked jacket on the cover is roomy through the shoulders and body, with straight brown trousers below. The fit is relaxed without looking loose and shapeless.

格纹短外套肩部宽松,白色内搭和直筒棕裤把上下分开。
01格纹短外套肩部宽松,白色内搭和直筒棕裤把上下分开。A short checked jacket has room through the shoulders. A white inner layer separates it from straight brown trousers.

黑色皮革短外套把肩做宽,深色宽松上衣配洗色牛仔,拉链外套配直筒裤,都是上身留空间、下装留一条清楚裤线。短外层搭短裤也不是例外,关键还是衣长别拖。

A short black leather jacket widens the shoulders; a roomy dark top meets washed jeans; a zip-front jacket pairs with straight trousers. Each leaves space above while keeping a clear trouser line below. A short outer layer with shorts follows the same principle: the top should not hang too long.

黑色皮革短外套的肩和袖子留有空间,格纹下摆从里面露出。
02黑色皮革短外套的肩和袖子留有空间,格纹下摆从里面露出。A short black leather jacket leaves room through the shoulders and sleeves, with a checked hem showing underneath.

Try it both ways.打开、扣上,都看一眼

想从修身穿法换出来,可以先试宽一点的短外套和直筒裤,不必一下换成很阔的裤腿。看肩部、下摆和裤脚三个位置,就足够判断这套衣服有没有站住。

To move away from a fitted wardrobe, start with a slightly roomier short jacket and straight trousers. There is no need to jump immediately to very wide legs. The shoulders, jacket hem and trouser hems are enough to tell whether the outfit holds together.

图片出处: 图1、2|Studio Nicholson 图3–6|Camiel Fortgens CollectionsImages 1–2: Studio Nicholson. Images 3–6: Camiel Fortgens Collections.

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