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褶皱上衣怎么看轮廓?先看侧摆

Reading a pleated top through its side hem

PLEATS PLEASE 的 FLUTTER 平放时接近一个四边形,上身以后才出现不对称侧摆。它好看的地方不只是褶皱,而是折线会随着身体变成立体轮廓。

Laid flat, PLEATS PLEASE’s FLUTTER is close to a four-sided shape. Its asymmetric side hem appears when worn. The interest lies in the way the fold lines become a three-dimensional outline around the body, as well as in the pleats themselves.

完整绿色造型,侧摆从腰线向外展开。
01完整绿色造型,侧摆从腰线向外展开。The complete green outfit shows the side hem extending outward from the waist.

看这类上衣,可以先做三步:平放时找不对称折线;上身后看侧摆有没有自然垂落;最后让下装保留一条简洁直线,不与上衣同时制造太多曲线。

With a top like this, begin by locating the asymmetric fold lines while it is flat. Once it is on, check whether the side hem falls naturally. Then keep the lower half in a simple line, rather than introducing several competing curves.

酒红色正面展示开襟和袖口的方向变化。
02酒红色正面展示开襟和袖口的方向变化。The burgundy front view shows changes in direction at the opening and cuffs.

A second look.再看一套造型

绿色整套把变化看得最清楚。正面有开合层次,侧面露出宽度差,背面则能看到布量集中在肩胛下方。

The complete green look makes these changes clearest. The front reveals layers that open and close, the side exposes differences in width, and the back shows where the fabric gathers below the shoulder blades.

图片出处:PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE Official Online StoreImages: PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE official online store, FLUTTER. Original source information is retained with the images.

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