穿搭方法Style notes

男装不想太板正，褶皱怎么穿

A softer approach to menswear pleats

秋冬男装想穿得松一点，不一定只靠宽裤。HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE 2026秋冬这组造型，连西装、背心和长外套都有柔和的弧度。紫色西装仍有翻领和成套感，褶皱却让袖子、腰侧和裤腿不必处处笔直。

A relaxed autumn/winter outfit need not rely only on wide trousers. In these HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Autumn/Winter 2026 looks, suits, vests and long coats all have softer curves. The purple suit keeps its lapels and coordinated appearance, while the pleats allow the sleeves, waist and trouser legs to move away from strict straight lines.

编辑：Sukkiri Archive / Edited by Sukkiri Archive

01紫色褶皱西装配同色裤：翻领还是熟悉的样子，衣身和裤腿线条更松。Purple pleated suit and matching trousers: familiar lapels remain, while the body and trouser legs follow looser lines.

更容易借用的是图2、图3：深色针织下面露一圈浅色衬衫；米白背心与衬衫同色，但袖子、前襟和下摆依然分得清。

Looks two and three are easier to borrow. A pale shirt shows beneath dark knitwear. An off-white vest and shirt share a colour, yet their sleeves, fronts and hems remain distinct.

02深色针织叠浅色衬衫：领口和下摆都露一点，两层衣服看得清。Dark knitwear over a pale shirt: a little shirt at the neck and hem makes both layers visible.

Try it both ways.打开、扣上，都看一眼

大外套可以放宽，里面的衣服别完全藏起来。深色占得多时，只加一种亮色，放在领口、腰间或下装，不用把整套配色全搬上身。

The outer layer can be roomy without hiding everything underneath. When dark colours dominate, add just one bright colour at the neck, waist or lower half. There is no need to copy the entire runway palette.

图片与观察 In pictures

03米白背心叠同色衬衫：靠不同领型和卷起的袖子，分清两件上衣。An off-white vest over a tonal shirt: different necklines and rolled sleeves distinguish the two tops.

04黑色套装：黄色只放在领口和腰间，中间留一块白。Black outfit: yellow is limited to the neckline and waist, with an area of white between them.

05棕色同色上下装：斜向褶皱和长短衣片，让整套颜色统一却不单调。Brown tonal separates: diagonal pleats and panels of different lengths add variation within one colour.

06浅绿长外套敞开穿，深色内搭和裤腿仍然看得清。A pale-green long coat worn open keeps the dark inner layer and trouser legs visible.

07黄色外套细节：立领与鼓起的袖子放在一起，褶皱有竖有斜。Yellow outerwear detail: compare the standing collar and rounded sleeves, with pleats running both vertically and diagonally.

08黄绿背心配酒红衬衫：内搭颜色从领口和双袖露出来。A yellow-green vest over a burgundy shirt lets the inner colour appear at the neckline and both sleeves.

09深色长外套敞开，红色裤装成为最显眼的一块颜色。A dark long coat worn open allows the red trousers to become the strongest area of colour.

10黑色大袖长外套配薄荷绿裤：外套已有足够变化，亮色只留在下装。A black long coat with large sleeves meets mint-green trousers. With plenty happening in the coat, the bright colour stays below.

11搭配检查卡：宽松叠穿先露一截内搭，用衣长差分清两层，亮色尽量只用一种。Styling card: expose a section of the inner layer, distinguish the layers through different lengths and keep the bright accent to one colour where possible.

图片：HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE 2026秋冬系列；来源FASHIONSNAP公开页面。来源转载；摄影署名未核得。原页：https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/homme-plisse-issey-miyake/2026aw/Images: HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Autumn/Winter 2026, via the public FASHIONSNAP collection page. Referenced imagery; photography credit has not been verified.

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来源与使用说明 / Sources & use

长裙配厚底鞋，先看裙摆

Long skirts and chunky shoes: start at the hem

长裙配厚底鞋，不必每套都露出脚踝。先看看裙摆和靴筒接在什么位置。A long skirt with chunky shoes does not have to show the ankle every time. Start by looking at where the skirt hem meets the boot shaft.

品牌档案Brand archive

NEEDLES，运动装也有复古味

The retro side of NEEDLES sportswear

让这组运动装有复古味的，不只有裤侧条纹。The retro quality of these sportswear looks comes from more than the stripes along the trousers.